Lisbon
Seven hills, fado music, the Atlantic, and the best custard tarts in the world
Lisbon is one of Europe's most loveable capitals, compact, hilly, full of character, and still affordable enough to live generously in. The trams that clatter through the Alfama neighbourhood are iconic. The fado emanating from a restaurant on a winter evening is genuinely moving. The pastéis de nata at Pastéis de Belém have a queue that starts before the doors open. And the light, Lisbon's Atlantic light is extraordinary.
- 01Pastéis de nata at Pastéis de Belém
- 02Bacalhau à Brás at Cervejaria Ramiro
- 03Grilled sardines in the Alfama in June
- 04Ginjinha (cherry liqueur) at A Ginjinha
Tram 28 has great views but expect crowds, take it early or very late
Sintra requires a full day and advance booking for the palaces
The Mouraria neighbourhood is more local and less polished than Alfama
Fado houses in the Alfama are tourist-friendly and genuinely moving
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